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Mutton chops or sideburns? Ask Joaquin Phoenix stylewatch

Joaquin Phoenix sports mutton chops in Inherent Vice Photograph: Warner Bros/Courtesy Everett/RexJoaquin Phoenix sports mutton chops in Inherent Vice Photograph: Warner Bros/Courtesy Everett/Rex
StylewatchMen's facial hair

Joaquin Phoenix’s facial hair in Inherent Vice is causing quite a stir, not least because it mimics an increased popularity in mutton chops’ little brother: sideburns

What’s the difference between mutton chops and sideburns? We only ask because Joaquin Phoenix is wearing the former in Inherent Vice, and what Phoenix does, fashion follows (see Her and To Die For).

“Sideburns,” explains Mike Harding, a men’s hair expert at Radio hair salon in Shoreditch, east London, “start at the hairline and run to the ear. Mutton chops are a few inches longer.” The difference is key, he says, because “very, very few men can pull off mutton chops and, as a result, they have come to represent a sort of status or power thing.” Or masculinity? “If you like that sort of look, sure”.

He cites Elvis, who started with sideburns but “progressed to mutton chops as he got more famous” and Wolverine (“very masucline, very powerful”) . Sideburns, however, are a decent variation. “I get a lot of men asking for a Chris Isaak or a James Dean, especially now that serious facial hair is giving way to something neater and more groomed,” says Harding.

Mutton chops and sideburns are a modern, alternative way to tackle facial hair without committing to something fuller. Sadly, Harding doesn’t have the capacity to grow either “and this is my burden”. Or blessing, depending on how you look at it?

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Larita Shotwell

Update: 2024-08-01